PARIS (AP) — Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski set Hermès’ spring collection ablaze with golden beiges and autumnal hues, defying seasonal conventions. Sensual mesh, leather thin as air, and a touch of utilitarian chic came together in an elegantly modern vision. Hermès proved once again that luxury can be both adventurous and effortlessly refined.
Here are some highlights of Saturday's ready-to-wear collections:
Hermes' gentle geometry
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s Hermès collection reimagined spring with a palette of warm golden beiges and earthy autumnal hues, a bold choice that immediately set the collection apart. Gentle geometry shaped the garments — myriad squares and architectural forms that fused seamlessly with Hermès’ signature minimalism. This interplay was reinforced by the striking wooden backdrop, enhancing the atmosphere of sophisticated restraint.
Vanhee-Cybulski leaned into a refined sensuality with sheer mesh trousers that transformed at a flick of a zip and featherweight leather jackets that seemed almost ethereal. These pieces paired athletic ease with luxury, demonstrating her skill in blending delicacy with bold, structured shapes. Utilitarian details, like buckled belts and boxy, pocket-laden shirts, underscored the collection’s grounding in practicality, even amid its more daring expressions of sensuality.
Throughout, Vanhee-Cybulski captured the lightness that spring calls for—luxurious reinterpretations of Hermès’ iconic silk scarves, transformed into breezy shirtdresses and rompers, embodied a carefree spirit ready for sunlit escapes. Warm neutrals dominated, echoing a feeling of being sun-soaked, while her activewear-inspired pieces conveyed a relaxed, summer-ready attitude without compromising on elegance.
The footwear, always a standout for Hermès, carried this ethos further. Sleek riding boots offered a solid foundation to the collection’s grounded luxury, while clog sandals brought a playful, modern twist.
Westwood's controled chaos
Vivienne Westwood’s spirit lived on in Paris this season, as Andreas Kronthaler brought a masterful interplay of rebellion, history, and glam rock energy to the runway. The spring collection opened with sparkling pants paired with a silky blue bodice, a nod to the late designer’s love of bold, unexpected contrasts—a brilliant start that practically screamed rock ‘n’ roll chic. Kronthaler clearly hasn’t lost his taste for the dramatic, diving headfirst into the kind of fierce, confrontational style that made Westwood an icon.
A giant silver chain, dangling almost absurdly to the model’s knees, set the tone: a clear statement of raw, unapologetic power, in course with the punk ethos of the 80s that still courses through this house’s veins. And there, of course, were the signature Westwood suits and Grecian-style draped dresses—classic shapes that carried a dynamic energy and timeless rebellion, reminiscent of the archival references that have defined Kronthaler’s tenure. These silhouettes bore the same sense of timeless radicalism seen in Kronthaler’s reinterpretations of Westwood’s personal wardrobe last fall, where each garment seemed to transcend fleeting trends.
Clashing checks—a staple of the Westwood lexicon—made their mark, giving the collection an urban, gritty edge that felt distinctly true to the house’s rebellious spirit.
Whimsy had its moment in the shape of a giant tulle headpiece, soaring high and embodying an ’80s bridal punk vision—a dizzying height of contradiction that no one but Westwood’s house could make look so irreverently sophisticated. This playful chaos echoed past seasons, where Kronthaler has embraced an eclectic mishmash of themes—from historical doublets to modern macramé cloaks. This time, however, there was a sense of restraint. It was a more controlled affair, one that saw Kronthaler tightening his narrative, perhaps reflecting a shift toward emotional homage rather than spectacle alone.
Elie Saab takes us on a sultry journey
Elie Saab unveiled his spring collection on Saturday at the Palais de Tokyo, and let me tell you, any expectations of colonial nostalgia were swiftly blown away, just like the harmattan gusts he drew inspiration from. Instead, what we got was a mesmerizing journey through the African savannah that felt fresh, vibrant, and completely devoid of tired clichés. This was no ordinary safari chic—Saab took the concept and injected it with his signature luxury, letting it roar in all the right ways while keeping the camp firmly in check.
Right from the start, Saab showed he wasn’t afraid to play with the safari staples—but with a twist. Safari suits, reimagined as roomy linen separates and sleek crepe jumpsuits, traded their usual khaki for the blazing red of fireball lilies, moody elephant gray, and the ochre dust of West Africa. It was a palette that brought the raw, natural beauty of the continent to life without falling into the predictable tropes. These looks weren’t the romanticized garb of the intrepid explorer; they were effortlessly chic, perfectly fitted for today’s cosmopolitan adventurer.
Then came the raffia—oh, the raffia! Saab worked magic with this plant fiber, weaving it into low-slung skirts and minidresses with faint bubble hems that felt light and breezy, yet utterly luxurious. It also made an appearance as fern embroideries on floor-grazing tulle gowns, adding texture and depth that felt delightfully organic. It was these delicate, thoughtful touches that took this collection beyond just a thematic exercise and elevated it to something exquisite.
Thomas Adamson, The Associated Press
